27 NISAN / APRIL 27

Agir agir Namche’ye geldik. NBC’den ikinci bir ekip de burda takili kalmis durumda. Ana kampa giderlerken haberleri almislar ve artik oraya gitmelerinin bir anlami olmadigi icin Namche’de kaliyorlar. Birkac gun sonra da Lakpa Rita’nin koyu olan ve bizim de geceledigimiz Thame’de bizim Sherpalar icin duzenlenecek ayri bir torene katilacaklarmis. Aksam NBCnin bu projesi icin calismanin agirligi altinda ezilmis, ve sucluluk ve uzuntusunu bizim gibi tirmanicilardan cikarmaya calisan bir tiple muhatap olmak durumunda kaliyoruz. Konusmak mumkun degil, adam kabalasiyor ama etraftakiler hemen susturuyorlar kendisini. Diger ekipler de mudahale ediyor cunku herif tam bir gerizekali. Hemen de pisman oluyor soylediklerine ve ozur diliyor. Hayatinda tirmanmamis ve hicbir bilgisi birikimi olmayan insan grubundan birinin yarattigi gereksiz bir durum. Umarim bir daha karsilasmayiz.

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We made it to Namche after a long day. NBC’s second team on their way up to base camp is also here stuck - they won’t be going up since all is hut down. They will go to Thame in a few days to attend a ceremony for the deceased Sherpas who were from there. During dinner, I am forced to be part of a conversation with someone from NBC who made it clear at the end that he is weak and feels sad and guilty and reflects all of it on climbers like me. Impossible to talk to as he gets rude with each sentence such that others intervene and shut him down. He regrets what he said immediately and apologizes. I accept the apology but he remains to be an idiot in my eyes. I don’t need that shit right now. I am hoping not to see him again.

Sekerleme / Nap

Sekerleme / Nap

Sekerleme / Nap

Sekerleme / Nap

26 NISAN / APRIL 26

Yolda diger ekiplerden insanlarla karsilasiyoruz. Herkesin morali sifir. Diger ekiplerin Sherpalariyla konusuyoruz, olenlerden kuzen olanlar var, kardes olanlar var. Yine aglasiyoruz. Debouche’de gecelemek icin duruyoruz. Aksam, “Into Thin Air”den uyarlanan film cekimlerinde 1996 trajedisindeki onemli isimlerden biri olan Scott Fisher’in dublorlugunu yapmak icin gelmis olan ama hersey iptal olunca donuse gecmis Neil Beidleman ile karsilasiyoruz. Neil, 1996’daki kaza sonrasinda kurtarma operasyonlarinda rol almis onemli bir kisilik. O da herkes gibi cok uzgun ve yipranmis. Holywood’un harcadigi milyonlardan sonra tekrar Everest’e gelmeyecegini ama baska bir dagda kalan cekimleri tamamlayacagini dusundugunu soyluyor. Bence iyi fikir, bu sene dag sirk gibi biseye donusuyordu zaten, heryerde film sirketleri, zirveden atlayacak bir tip, vs…

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On way down, we meet people from other teams. Everyone is down big time. Some Sherpas tell us how they lost their cousins, brothers, etc. Tears again. 

We stop at Debouche to spend the night. We come across Neil Beidleman who was going to play Scott Fisher’s double in the movie adapted from Into thin Air. He is one of the important names in the rescue operations of 1996 accidents on the mountain. He is also super sad and exhausted. He thinks Holywood won’t be coming back to Everest after spending millions of dollars but instead probably would go to another mountain to complete the footage they are missing. I think that’s a good idea. It was becoming like a circus up there with these film companies and jumping stunts, etc.

Sabah 6'da Tengboche'de gunes AmaDablam'in arkasindan dogarken / Sunrise behind AmaDablam at Tengboche at 6am

Sabah 6'da Tengboche'de gunes AmaDablam'in arkasindan dogarken / Sunrise behind AmaDablam at Tengboche at 6am

Neil Beidleman

Neil Beidleman

25 NISAN / APRIL 25

Sabah ogreniyoruz ki ana kampta kalmaya israr eden ve belki birseyler degisir diye bekleyenlerin cogu da Sherpalarin kararinin yinelenmesi uzerine geri inmeye baslamis… O kadar umutluydum ki belki birseyler degisir diye, ne kadar uzuldugumu anlatamam… Fiona ve ben de ana kampa geri gitmek yerine asagiya dogru inmeye karar veriyoruz. Ana kampa da haber saliyoruz ki halihazirda hurclarda olan tirmanma ekipmanlarimizi asagiya dogru gondersinler ve bize yetissin diye. Ama herkes inmeye basladigi icin etrafta yeterince yak yokmus. Belki 1 hafta ya da 10 gun surer dediler. Canimizi sikmamaya calisiyoruz ve donus yoluna geciyoruz.

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In the morning we find out that there is really no hope of climbing Everest anymore and everyone is packing and on their way down. Fiona and I decide not to go back up again since it is pointless but contact some people there for our duffle bags to come down and catch us at some point. It proves to be more challenging than I thought since yaks are in high demand as everyone is coming down. It may take a week or 10 days - all depends on yaks’ speed.